Glass – Part 2

Breaks

How far you want to take care of glass most likely will depend on the value – monetary and sentimental. Aside from cleaning and polishing – did you know that breaks and cracks to glass can be mended? Both rivets and glue can be used to accomplish this.

Rivets were the primary method of repair prior to the invention of the super glues of toady. Don’t think we have to tell you that their use was – and if used today would be – unsightly, and in most cases are only used when someone is completely determined to continue using the piece. For older pieces where rivets have been used, the problem to remove them and use glue is a tricky operation leaving holes that can be filled or masked to a degree by using fiber glass.

For gluing breaks, most experts agree that using industrial Araldite is the best. If used correctly, particularly on breaks where there is a natural indentation, i.e., wind stem, the repair is almost invisible. For home use of this product, the following steps are recommended by some:

  • Use the finest smear of Araldite
  • Hold the article together with strips of brown sticky paper stretched across the joints
  • Stand the article in such a way that the least amount of strain is on the joint (A box of sand works well for this)
Chips

Chips are best removed by being ground out – or if not too deep, polished out. The most common chips are those around the rim of a glass and these can usually be removed by someone trained in using a grinding wheel. For chips in less accessible areas, or for pieces that have significant value, you always want to have an expert do the ‘grinding’ repair. As in any case of glass repair, there is always the possibility that the item may shatter. So before having any item worked on, be prepared to accept the possibility of breakage.

Should you have a ‘cheap’ piece of glass you can try ‘smoothing’ the chip by using a nail file with oil and then finishing the process with jeweler’s rouge. NOTE: This is NOT a recommended ‘fix’ and is a hazardous process that may result in more damage or breakage, and TAM takes no responsibility for anyone’s trying it. User understands the risk and accepts sole responsibility for any results should they attempt to ‘smooth’ any item.

Stoppers

Need a stopper? If you’re not a purist and don’t mind having a stopper that simply looks good with the piece and doesn’t match exactly – then you might consider buying a stopper that is too large and having it ground down to fit the neck of the bottle. You can try removing stuck stoppers by using one of the following methods *:

  1. Soaking in oil – or glycerin, cooking oil. Allow the oil to sit for several hours before wiggling it gently from side to side all the way around.
  2. Gently tapping with another piece of glass – the operative word being ‘gently’
  3. Soaking alternately in hot and cold water – not recommended for crystal pieces as extreme heat changes may cause breakage.

* Use these methods at your own risk.   Every piece of glass is different and should there be any unseen cracks, fractures or dings, using any one of these methods might result in breakage.

Did You Know….

It is not possible to weld in a new piece of glass into an old lead glass piece because the heat will melt the lead and cause the whole glass to go cloudy and gray.

To replace a missing piece of leaded glass you can have the replacement piece cut and then glue it in. This can be expensive depending on the shape of the cut.

On another note – should you want to replace a piece that has ruby glass – you can have ruby glass made today, however, this is a very expensive proposition due to the fact that solid gold is thrown into the molten glass to make the real ruby color. (That is why the old ruby glass brings such a good price today)

 

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32 Articles on Identifying, Cleaning, Selling, and Buying Collectibles & Antiques

Hard to say what’s in store for the antiques market this year. I’m sure some of you out there  will be thinking of disposing of items – and you may want to know more about what you’re getting rid of  beforehand – or maybe ‘gussy’ it up a bit before selling it. If you haven’t checked it, out there is a wealth of information available in the Texas Antique Mall Compendium that may be of  help.  For those of you who’ve never taken a look at the information offered there, we’ve placed a list below – complete with links – to help identify, clean and care for, or  buy and sell your antiques and collectibles. If you would like to go directly to the Compendium page – click here  - otherwise,  you’ll find each title with a brief description below.  Enjoy!

Reference & Price Guides Index – Index of identification and price guides for antique, vintage toys and Snoopy collectibles.

Patent Dates – List of Patent Dates beginning in 1836. Useful for dating items with patent numbers.

Bakelite Test – Learn how to tell if an item is made of Bakelite.

Clean Silver – Clean your sterling and silverplate safely without harsh chemicals and little or no ‘elbow-grease’.

Clean Other Metals – Clean brass, aluminum, pewter, and copper using common household products.

Whiten China and Ironstone – Bring back the beauty of old china and porcelain dishes using a common household product.

Auction Information - Learn about estate and onsite auctions before going. . . Glossary of terms, General information on how an auction is run, and what to take if you are going to an on-site auction.

Search for antique values, hallmarks, etc. – Learn how we search to find information on an unknown antique or collectible.

10 Ways to Sell Your Stuff - Read the pro’s and con’s for 10 different ways you can dispose of an item, a collection, or an estate.

Cleaning, Care of Antique Linen – Learn how to care for your old quilts, doilies, tablecloths, lace, drawn and pulled, and more.

Helpful Hints – More helpful hints on how to care for your antiques and collectibles using common household agents… remove sticky residue, unstick stoppers, remove soot, clean cast iron and more!

Cleaning, Care of Ivory – Learn how to clean and care for your ivory jewelry, figurines and more.

Cleaning Jewelry – Chart with information on how to clean over 30 different gemstones that may be set in fine jewelry – what to do and what not to do.

Identifying Jewelry – How to identify fine jewelry from costume jewelry at garage sales, estate sales, auctions and flea markets. We tell you some of the differences and what to look for when looking for gold and sterling silver jewelry.

Gemstone Identification – General information on 37 gemstones including diamond, ruby, emerald, tourmaline, alexandrite and many more.

Jewelry Care – How to care for your fine diamond, ruby, emerald, pearl and other precious jewelry set in gold

Care of Wooden Toys – Learn how to care for your wooden toys – new and old. What to do and what not to do.

Cleaning & Care of Plastic Toys – See how to clean and care for your collectible plastic toys.

Cleaning Metal & Vinyl Toys – Instructions on how to care for your diecast, tin, stamp steel and vinyl toys.

Auburn Rubber – Clean and care for your Auburn Rubber toys.

Snoopy Copyrights – Learn what all those dates mean.

Toy Grading - Learn how collectors use the C-10 scale to grade toys.

Gold - US & European marks, alloy variations, calculate scrap gold value, definitions for other types of gold designations, i.e., gold-filled, rolled gold, vermeil.

Precious Metal Weights & Conversion Table – Precious metal weights – troy ounce, pennyweight, grams and conversion chart.  Calculate weight from grams to ounces

Calculate Gold Content of Jewelry – Use this formula to calculate how much gold value there is in 18K, 14K or 10K jewelry – before you sell it.

US Silver Coins – Silver Content – Learn how much silver there is in silver coins before you sell or spend them.

ONLINE TOOL – Convert Ounces to Grams – Use this FREE online tool to convert Troy and Standard Ounces into Grams.

“ONLINE TOOL -Gold Value for Karat Jewelry – Get the gold value for your 9K, 10K, 12K, 14K, 18K and 22K jewelry before you sell it.  Use this FREE tool to make calculations online.

How to Buy Sterling Silver – What you should know before buying sterling.

Sterling Picture Gallery – See pictures of sterling pieces, how weighted items are constructed and more.

Not All Silver is Sterling – Not all silver is sterling, marks, definitions and more.

Polish & Wax - What to know about polishing your antique furniture – French polish, waxing and 4 formulas for making your own ‘reviver’.

Scratch Repair - How to repair scratched furniture.

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Glass Care – Part 1

We all use a lot of glass products in our every day life, and caring for the more common glass items is typically just a run through the dish washer. However, if you have antique glass vases, compotes, stem ware, etc., it may be helpful to know some of the following.

Glass is basically made of sand heated with lime and soda -with the manufacture method affecting the performance. If glass – particularly antique glass – has not been properly annealed (a controlled heat treatment to release stress), the glass may develop cracks for no apparent reason. Other outside elements that can contribute to this are smoke, sunlight or heat. In some cases, items can spontaneously crack causing the item to break into pieces. On a personal note, I had this happen to a lovely crystal compote. I was in the other room and heard it break -went into the dining room and there it way,  laying  in two pieces on the table. 

Glass can also crystallize causing it to lose its clarity and become delicate. You may have seen some glass that appears to have an iridescent look. This is caused by a chemical change when carbon dioxide in moisture reacts with a substance in the glass forming sodium carbonate and calcium silicate. This process usually takes many years - Roman glass has been found in this condition –  with the resulting patina typically being desirable. However, it is possible to remove the iridescence from some items  by very long soaking in several bowls of distilled water, followed by celluloid varnish.

Glass is absorbent and slightly soluble – in water. For example, if glass is stored in paper it can absorb dye or acid from the wrapping. Even if the paper is acid free, it would seem that too has an affect.Note: For this reason never store liquor for any length of time in lead-crystal decanters. The lead can leach into the liquid causing problems when you drink it.

The most common problem encountered with glass – in the home – would be the clouding or staining of glass. Unlike tarnish on silver, this clouding or discoloration is not simply a surface problem.

It is possible that the liquid may have very slightly dissolved some of the glass itself causing the glass to react with the liquid’s components. Some of the components in these liquids might be lime in water, salts in flower water, and tartrates in wine. There are many ideas about how to remove this ‘layer’ of film, but some removal processes can cause more damage than good. Some less aggressive ‘home remedies’ that have been tried are:

  • Ammonia
  • Vinegar
  • Denture tablets
  • Toothpaste

There are those that think the best ‘home remedy’ is to rub the stain with a fine abrasive. We’re not talking kitchen scouring powders. Using these will cause more scratches and damage. There are polishing agents on the market suited for glass and mirrors – and if you plan on trying to polish your own glass, be sure you get the correct product and follow package directions.

The only sure way is to have the thin layer of damaged glass removed is by acid – by a professional.   And, should you take the item to be restored, you will need to let the restorer  know what agents you used to try to clean the item. This will help to avert any possibility of damage to the item (or harm to the person) by the mixing of conflicting chemicals, so be sure to keep a record of the materials used trying to clean each item.

Next time we’ll cover glass breaks, chips, and stoppers.

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